![]() Only use the recommended solvents with 1-part primers or paints because using harsher solvents or incompatible ones can cause damage to the substrate, or prevent the paint from applying or curing properly. Always use a clean, lint-free cotton rag with any solvent wipes because some solvents can break down synthetic rag materials, leaving a residue. Generally, less aggressive solvents can be used for removing sanding residue and cleaning the surface before painting. Grease, wax, oil, water, dust, dirt, sanding residue, or any other foreign substances can all be considered contaminants, which can have negative effects on the cure, or finish, of the paint being applied. After sanding the substrate smooth, the surface should be wiped with a solvent to help remove any contaminants. ![]() ![]() Most 1-part marine paints require the surface to be sanded smooth with 180-320 grit sandpaper for the paint to have the best mechanical bond possible, with a smooth finish. Epoxy-based 2-part primers can also be used before applying 1-part paints, but may be deemed excessive, due to the cost, strict mix ratio, and stronger solvents needed to prepare the surface for the epoxy primer. One-part paints can generally be applied over 1-part primers, or in many cases, directly applied to fiberglass, wood, and in some cases, metal. The substrate should be fair and smooth before any primer or paint is applied because the primer and paint will directly reflect the smoothness, or the texture of the surface beneath. Always use proper personal protective equipment (PPE) for any sanding, solvent wiping, or painting. One-part paints also do not have as long of a useful life. They are generally more forgiving than 2-part paints, they are more cost effective, but they are not as hard, durable, abrasion resistant, or solvent resistant. One-part paints cure on their own without the requirement of any other components. Most marine topside paints can be broken off into 1-part air-dry products and 2-part activated paints. Choosing a paint system is a compromise of cost, the painter's ability and skills, application method, color options, environmental conditions, as well as the longevity and durability of the paint. This will dictate how to prepare the surface properly. The first step is to select a paint system. Its really helpful to have someone assist, they roll first and you follow with the tip brush.The saying that "a paint job is only as good as the preparation" is one of the most important things to consider before starting a new paint job. You have to do a complete coat, you can't leave anything unfinished and come back later. Let the first coat cure at least 24 hours if not more so the paint does not gum up your paper. 400 wet tends to cut better than 320 dry. Thin 10% percent by volume is pretty much perfect is air temp is around 70.īrightsides gains its gloss when drying with the outside layer becoming hardest, so for the second coat you must sand it dull. ![]() Foam rollers from HD or Lowes are fine, but make sure you invest in a good tipping brush. Don't paint in direct sunlight and don't paint a hull that has been allowed to get warm in the sun. This will take out any errant brush marks and you won't burn through. Use two coats and let dry overnight and you can sand it with 220 on an orbital. Tips, as mentioned above do a really good job with the primer first. I bought 3 quarts and will end up using it all, I did make some mistakes. the thinner is basically Kerosene, you could substitute that (that was straight from the Interlux tech rep, but I'm not sure if kerosene has any additives so to be safe I used the can of 333).Ĭoverage is very good, I only needed 2 quarts top put two coats on my 22 foot hull from boot stripe up. I painted the entire hull of my C22 with Brightsides using the 333 thinner to thin by 10%, first primed with the Interlux Prekote primer.įirst.
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